For Zoroastrians, fire is a link between humans and the supernatural world, and a medium through which spiritual insight and wisdom can be gained. It's purifying, life-sustaining and a vital part of worship. Today, most visitors who arrive at the no-frills Yanar Dag visitors' center come for the spectacle rather than religious fulfillment. The experience is most impressive at night, or in winter. When snow falls, the flakes dissolve in the air without ever touching the ground, says Rahila. Despite the claimed antiquity of the Yanar Dag flames -- some argue that this particular fire may only have been ignited in the 1950s -- it's a long 30-minute drive north from the center of Baku just to see it. The center offers only a small cafe and there's not much else in the area.

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